Madeira. Walk from Santana to Funchal

Dima Pashchenko writes: “Let's continue our walks around the island of Madeira. Today there will be a marathon walk of more than 40 km from Santana, which lies on the north coast to Funchal, which, as you know, lies on the south coast.

The previous day turned out to be all crumpled, we wanted to walk from Santa Cruz to the northern coast of the island, but before we even managed to climb the ridge, we were flooded with rain. And specifically so flooded. Therefore, we decided to stop this venture and left by bus from San Antonio de Serra back to Funchal. However, the next day we did get to the north.

(Total 30 photos)

Source: Journal/dima-pashchenko

1. We arrived in Santana. This village is famous for its houses with triangular roofs. The first colonizers of this island lived in such houses.

2. Now most of these houses have been chosen by souvenir shops. A tourist is a people greedy for all sorts of unusual things.

3. We wanted to find such houses that are still used for their intended purpose as real housing. And yet we managed to do it, though we had to go around the whole village.

4. There were different houses. One is prettier than the other.

5. Roofs are made of ordinary straw. Locals say that straw does not let moisture through at all and works better than tiles, because. fresh air in the room.

6. Nice house.

7. Our yesterday's goal, which we did not reach because of the rain, is the Faial rock. Today we are very lucky, because. when we were on the bus, this rock was completely shrouded in clouds.

8. The weather did us credit for yesterday's rain. You could even see the southern tip of the island. We passed the village of Faial. Now we need to climb the ridge, to a height of about 1500 meters.

9. I understood why there were no famous pianists from Madeira on earth, because the piano cannot be brought into those houses that stand on the top of the mountain. Before, I had two questions to which I did not know the answer: “Who is to blame?” and "What to do?". Now a third one has been added: “How do I get the piano in there?”

10. The way from Santana to Funchal is not close. Time to refresh yourself with oranges plucked from someone else's garden.

11. Another thing that caught my eye in Madeira is the number of roads. It seems that the Maderians have some kind of national fun in the construction of roads. We would have said: “Fuck you, not the road! It’s not good to live so high / far away. ” or “Do you know how much this road will cost? Nah, let's not build it, no money in the world is enough. And the Maderians do not know all this and build roads. Respect.

12. And their gardens are almost on sheer cliffs.

13. We rise to the ridge. Faial Rock - rear view.

14. Kindergarten and its pupil.

15. The way to the top of the ridge was long and tedious. Clouds with rains flew in, then they flew away and a clear sky appeared. We walked and walked and came to the village of Ribeiro Frio. Connoisseurs of Latin or several European languages guessed how its name is translated into Russian. Ribeiro - river, frio - frost, cold. Trout is bred here.

16. The navigator showed the way to Funchal very winding. And as you know, the most interesting begins after the words: "Let's cut here!" We decided to cut our path. What came out of it, see below.

17. We got on a very beautiful levada. It had obviously not been set foot on by a human for a very long time. Levada is hollowed out along the right bank of a mountain stream.

18. A little video from this levada.

19. Everything would be fine, but it's very damp there. Dew, puddles, waterfalls. Soaked to the skin.

20. But damn it, it was worth it. During my stay in Madeira, I walked more than 10 levadas, but this one was the most beautiful.

21. As if in a fairy tale. We continued to walk along it even when the navigator said that our idea to cut off failed miserably.

22. Levada did not go where we had to go. But we didn't give up. We went forward, believing in a bright future.

23. Soon the main levada turned into three small levadas, which fed the big one along which we walked.

24. One of the levadas went up, just where we had to go. But there was one caveat - she was covered in thorns, walking on which a living hell. All legs were torn. But this levada led us to the Passo de Poiso. For those who have not watched the Giro de Italia, let me remind you that Passo is a pass.

25. It was here that I saw the clearest sky during my stay in Madeira. The point was that all the clouds were under our feet. View of the northern part of the island where we came from. It remains only to guess what beautiful views open here when there are no clouds.

26. And this is a view of the southern part of the island. Somewhere right below lies our Funchal.

27. On the question of the ambition of Europeans. It’s clean, after all, not where they don’t litter, but where they clean it .... There was a downhill ahead.

28. We reached the clouds, which in photo 26 were below us. The forest on the southern part of the island was very badly damaged by forest fires. It is a pity to look at the charred age-old eucalyptus trees. Next, we are waiting for the famous village of Monte.

29. And here are the kids living in Monte, returning from school. Little hedgehogs in the fog.

30. With every meter down the clouds became thicker and thicker.

31. But soon we passed the cloud layer and entered the operational space. Before us lay Funchal. The last throw is left and we will be in the hotel.

32. GPS track of today. Passed on foot, crawling, skipping, running more than 40 km in one day. We were very lucky with the weather today.