The history of the garter, the most exciting accessory of a woman's closet

Women's dress for centuries, gradually turned into a fetish, a symbol of victory of love. Fashion historian Mariana Skuratovskaya lifts the veil of times over in this savory staple that in a different century, was a symbol of fidelity, and a tool of seduction, and even a way to Express their political beliefs.

To feel particularly elegant enough for the most casual outfit to wear stockings; the Board is old, but tried and tested. However, why old? After all, the tights came into our life not so long ago — what are some half a century in comparison with the history of our and our costume? And earlier, and there was no choice, stockings, a variety... stockings and garters. By the way, on the last pay disappointingly little attention, if we delve into the history of underwear, usually write about the stockings, only a passing mention that supported them.

But the garter has its own note, and storied history. If you do not pay attention to them, they might get offended and leave you at the most inopportune moment. And then the embarrassment! However, in very rare cases, this may result in unexpected...

A long time ago some English Countess danced at the festival, and her legs flew garter for stocking. Noticing, laughing as some of the guests, the king himself picked up the garter and said, "shamed be the person who is ill think about it". And then added that he would soon raise the garter to such heights that all by yourself will be honored for the honor to wear it. The word king kept and founded the order of the Garter — the highest order of chivalry in Britain.

There are other versions of the legend, they say, one day the Queen came back from the chambers of a king in his own, and he, when he went to her, he saw lying on the floor of the blue garter. A servant passed by and didn't bend down to pick it up. Then the king, who decided that it is thing of his wife, ordered to bring the garter and declared that, in spite of this neglect, the time will come when all will read it. A famous phrase that has become the motto of the order, allegedly said the Queen, asked her husband a question of what you will think about it people, if they know that she is so lightly lose his suspenders.

Whatever the reason for the founding of the knights (and there are other options), it exists for more than six years. Garter, the most ancient sign of his men put on the left leg, under your knee. However, ladies, which, over time, also began to take, come with inherent modesty and put on the garter on the left arm above the elbow. Now, this velvet ribbon is dark blue, which is embroidered slogan. And once they were decorated with much richer, even precious stones.

In short, the item that was awarded to become a symbol of the order of the oldest in the world, deserves our attention, right?

When in the Middle ages, men wore at feet long, dense stockings, essentially replacing the pants, of course, had to fix, so they do not slip. Because the upper edge "shossow" and on the edge of outerwear made holes and was pulling them in leather or silk laces, attaching one to the other — it already was, in fact, of the garter. Wore similar and women, except that they have all this was hiding under long robes. Was when the stockings are not attached to the garment, and belt. Yes, it was a type familiar to all of us design, suspender belt. And finally, the old version and feet wrapped with strips of cloth, and on top of them to secure the wrap laces.

Later, when in the menswear stockings and pants completely divided, stockings continued to maintain the garter "criss-cross".

In this form sported a smug Malvolio in Shakespeare's "Twelfth night." Poor guy overdid it and pulled the garter belt too tight...

Elegant ribbon, usually of silk, wrapped around the leg, the back ends cross over, and then either on the side or front tied in a bow. Silk stockings with embroidery, lush bows garters — men flirted even more boldly than women!

And women also used a similar garters, only they had not seen the women's feet were hidden under the long and since the sixteenth century, very full skirt. However, why is it "no"? Husbands and friends!

Women's dress for centuries, gradually turned into a fetish, a symbol of victory of love. Carnal love — wore them around the knee, where the path was booked all but the elect. This male was boldly exposed, but the female — hidden. Stockings desired the legs can be addressed and at the movement, such as dance, but to see the garter, or even to take possession of it... if the lady is willing, and the situation is clearly going to be spicy.

It is not surprising that sometimes the garter is decorated with embroidery could be a subtle pattern (sometimes blatant) and the words with meaning, encouraging, or, conversely, cooling somebody too passionate intentions demonstrating loyalty or, on the contrary, wind: "Together forever!" or "you will Die where you live", "My heart is taken."

Why, sometimes on the garter found a place of addiction is not love, but political. "Bonnie Prince Charlie", the pretender to the British throne, could not in the middle of the XVIII century to take it from the Hanoverian dynasty and the return of the Stuarts, but followers and fans and groupies he had many. "Our Prince — brave" and "Our business — right" — who knows, maybe the owners of the garter with such inscriptions were threatened at the time, serious trouble, because there are already smelled of treason... But must be in an area where similar adorned garter, allow only trusted people!

Given the delicate and attractive, the role of the garter, it's no wonder that there are many traditions associated with them. For example, the bride's garter symbolized luck and in particular fertility. And if today the single women at the wedding of a friend waiting for a Bridal bouquet, something young people need a thing far more intimate, Yes, Yes, a garter. This tradition for centuries, and it is good that the bride the result was to remove the garter and toss myself into the crowd — and the sooner they are removed...

In the book rosemary Hawthorne, a British lady who for many years a collector of lingerie and researching his history, mentions a tradition that existed in the early twentieth century, a village in Scotland — if the younger sister to marry before the older, the older's wedding was to be in the green garters. Any man, to which during the wedding of games, sometimes very innocent, managed to get these garters, you'll have to marry her. But I had to get married before the younger nimble...

And why in our days, the bride's garter is often blue? Blue, the color of the virgin Mary symbolizes purity and innocence. About how many famous weddings we can watch on TV, read about them online or in books! Wedding dresses brides — Actresses, aristocratic, and other stars — are examined in minute detail-as well as their jewelry, bouquets, Bridal tiaras, veils, etc. But the garter press is silent. And correctly. Too intimate detail.

But back to the story. So, first string, then tape, then...

Technically still a ribbon, but the improved — the garter cut into the leg, it was made of several layers of fabric and prostaivali. And by the end of the eighteenth century invented garters with springs. They were, of course, more dense, but firmly sat on the foot. So, when in 1791, married the Duke of York, in honor of this event was released newfangled spring garter bright red color called "Blush Duchess". And proposed garter knit is a softer, albeit not as reliable.

To the 1830‑ies, "some lady attached to the bottom of the corset two triangular piece of elastic matter, from each of which stretch along two ribbons, they passed through a loop of ribbon, attached to the stockings, garters making excessive". To the well known belt (or corset, or combination — your choice) with elastic bands left quite a bit.

By the mid-nineteenth century, people won finally naughty rubber, invented the process of vulcanization of rubber, and there was "rubber" in the modern sense of the word. Used cotton, and flax, and wool, are actively used at the same time invented artificial colors, gum was not just one color, but patterned in a word, there was plenty to choose from! And what to make new garters. Well, not to spend time on it and go to the store and buy them (as well as a couple of other-tenth new stocking). Garter of woven elastics was advertised as not just comfortable, well kept on foot, and how useful they didn't pull his leg and broke the circulation, as a regular of the garter. Casing, buckles, bows, rosettes, and the ribbon — they can still choose to decorate to their own taste.

Then, in 1860, there was the Paris new — garter with ribbons, which were tied to the lower edge of the corset (as rose Bertin, the French milliner of Queen Marie Antoinette, "all new is well forgotten old" — think of the Middle ages with their to fasten the stockings to the edge of clothes!).

And in the late 1870s already starting to appear corset, the bottom of which was a special of the loop, "ears", where you can see the rubber, the new fashionable trend will very rapidly, displacing the usual garter. It was possible to fasten gum buttons. You can attach them directly to the corset, but you can — and special belt that was worn over the corset. Well, do gum? Hidden in the cozies made of silk or satin, with clips of various forms, which kept stockings (want gold? please!), multi-colored or deceptively modest black for every taste.

In the 1890s beauty from "Moulin Rouge" (and not only there) famously danced the cancan, highly raising his legs were all the details to see what is under their skirts. Froth of petticoats with lace, knickers, black stockings and black...-gum garter. What kind of modesty!

The variety was huge — no wonder the end of XIX and beginning of XX century are called the cult of underwear. Suspenders could be mild, like velvet or satin, but can be boned like a corset. The corset could be a lot of buttons — gum tacked to the stockings, and the rest of the buttons were fastened his trousers and even lower skirt, so underwear, including stockings, turned into a single structure, but didn't move out. Gum could be with corset one, and could be detachable. Gum could be released from under trousers, but can be put in a specially made trousers slots. Why? The metal clip is not in contact with the skin and do not hurt her.

Well, garter, which covered the leg? It will also exist. When in 1910 skirts shortened, the garters were often attached below the knee, making them particularly elegant, even combined in color with the rest of the costume, — suddenly this place will flicker when you walk or dance?

And when in the 1920's women's dresses drastically shortened, and the dances began to demand sudden movements (for example, Charleston), in the context of the high-flying dress could flicker seductive elegant gum...

Wide elastic garter belt and grace of the 1950s played the role of former corsets — they did have (well, even if at the time!), and support stockings.

But time passed, full skirts that were hidden under a structure of frills, bones and laces, and a similar belt went on the shelf in the closet or thrown — in their place came the simple lines of the 60s, and along with a tight-fitting waistband with lycra. And the 70s brought with tights, at the same time urging women to abandon all these methods of seduction men attempt to make the waist thinner, more seductive... yourself Down with corsets, girdles, stockings, garter belt and elastic bands! Down! Long live freedom!

Well, what have we achieved? Freedom, Yes. And at the same time that the stockings that hold the belt with elastic bands or garters, has not disappeared, but has acquired a special charm, the charm of the past. Seductive past. When a woman on the morning wore jeans and socks or tights and a mini skirt, and slowly and carefully pulled the thin stockings, and then press or wear them to a fancy belt with satin bands, or wear a garter — lace, embroidery, bows, frills Underwear... not for the bus, and limousine. And even better coach. Romance, luxury, calmness, bliss. What we so often lacking today.

In short, Express tights weekdays. And when you want to please myself (and at the same time — what could be hiding — and the person to whom you allow to enjoy the strip of skin above the edge of stockings and panties), get out of the box of the garter. Or belt. And let it is not as convenient as tights, but so... Flirty! We are all a little Flirty. At least sometimes.