The History of Ketchup: From Chinese Fish Sauce to an American Classic

Ketchup is one of the most popular sauces in the world, but its path to global fame was long and unexpected. Originating in China as a fermented fish sauce, it traveled through Europe and underwent various recipe changes until it evolved into the sweet, tomato-flavored condiment that has become a symbol of American cuisine. In this article, we'll trace the remarkable history of ketchup and discover how it conquered tables around the globe.

Ketchup is considered a traditional American sauce worldwide. Therefore, many believe it originated in the United States. However, this is not true, as the first form of ketchup appeared in Asia long before Columbus discovered America. Moreover, it was Europeans who first developed a taste for it.

It's difficult to pinpoint the exact origins of ketchup. Historians believe it was invented in China, from where it traveled to Vietnam and then spread throughout Southeast Asia. Researchers say the Chinese version of ketchup resembled modern Worcestershire sauce—dark and spicy.

In the 17th century, British sailors sampled this exotic sauce in the Malay Islands. Locals called it "ke-tsiap" or "kecap." It contained no tomatoes whatsoever, but was based on a fermented mixture of pickled fish, shellfish, nuts, and soy. British traders of the East India Company particularly appreciated the sauce's ability to add some flavor to bland shipboard food.

In their homeland, the British attempted to recreate this Eastern delicacy. Their efforts were unsuccessful, as England lacked anchovies, tropical shellfish, and soy. Resourceful chefs began experimenting with local produce, attempting to recreate the rich umami flavor of the Asian original. They used the most unusual ingredients: mushrooms, walnuts, lemons, and even beer. Sometimes the results were even good, but they just weren't the same.

Dozens of ketchup variations emerged. The most popular was mushroom ketchup—made from button mushrooms with onions, spices, and anchovies for a salty flavor. Aristocrats adored nut ketchup made from green walnuts, while coastal regions made an oyster version. Recipes were published in cookbooks, and housewives prided themselves on their signature versions of the sauce.

Interestingly, all these British ketchups were thin, dark, and quite salty—not at all like the modern tomato-based variety. They were used literally like soy sauce today: added drop by drop to stews, soups, and sauces to enhance the flavor.

Tomatoes arrived in Europe from South America as early as the 16th century, but for a long time, Europeans were wary of the bright red fruits, believing them to be poisonous. It wasn't until the late 18th century that tomatoes began to gain popularity, especially in Mediterranean cuisine. American colonists, who were already actively preparing various types of ketchup based on British recipes, decided to try tomatoes as a base.

The first known recipe for tomato ketchup appeared in 1812. It was published by James Mees, a scientist and horticulturist from Philadelphia. The sauce contained tomato pulp, spices, and brandy for preservation. The flavor was sharp, spicy, and not at all sweet—more like a spicy tomato paste.

The tomato-based version quickly overtook its competitors for one simple reason: tomatoes grew in virtually every garden in America, while mushrooms and nuts required more effort to harvest. By the 1850s, tomato ketchup had become the most popular sauce in the United States, although mushroom and nut versions still appeared in old family recipes.

The product turned out runny, inconsistent, and perishable. Manufacturers used different recipes, so many sauces were completely different. Manufacturers added huge amounts of preservatives to the sauce, including sodium benzoate and boric acid, which were considered safe. Some unscrupulous factories even dyed spoiled tomatoes with charcoal and brick dust to hide the signs of decay. But people bought the ketchup, even at the risk of poisoning entire families.

In 1876, a young entrepreneur named Henry John Heinz set out to change the industry. He developed a ketchup recipe that didn't require dangerous preservatives thanks to its high content of vinegar, sugar, and salt. Heinz used only ripe tomatoes and glass bottles so customers could see the product's quality.

It was thanks to this man that ketchup transformed from an obscure, homemade concoction into a world-famous product. Heinz was a professional maker of sauces and condiments. His main source of income came from jarred horseradish. In 1876, Heinz introduced its first tomato ketchup. It was made from five simple ingredients, including tomatoes, which set it apart from others on the market.

While other companies added various preservatives to ketchup in an attempt to increase its shelf life, Heinz eschewed chemicals. "Purity is the best preservative" was the manufacturer's motto. Maintaining sterility during production gave the sauce a long shelf life.

Henry Heinz also invented the idea of bottling ketchup in narrow-necked glass bottles. In 1906, the classic Heinz silhouette, still associated with this ketchup today, was born. It wasn't until 1983, 80 years after the glass bottle's introduction, that the company released a plastic-wrapped version. It featured a convenient dispenser, making using the ketchup even easier for consumers. The packaging, however, remained transparent, a part of the brand's tradition.

Ketchup in the late 19th century was thin, like soy sauce, and required a lot of shaking to get it out of the bottle. Heinz experimented with the recipe, gradually increasing the amount of tomato paste and pectin. By the 1900s, his ketchup had become noticeably thicker, but still required vigorous shaking.

Heinz ketchup's famously slow-drying nature became a marketing advantage. In the 1970s, the company launched an advertising campaign with the slogan, "The best things come to those who wait." Thickness became synonymous with quality: the thicker the ketchup, the more real tomatoes it contained, not water.

Competitors tried to catch up with Heinz by adding thickeners and starch, but the original recipe, with its high tomato paste content, remained the benchmark. Today, by American standards, authentic ketchup must contain at least 33% tomato concentrate.

After World War II, American military bases around the world introduced ketchup to local populations. The Japanese began adding it to omelets, creating the dish omuraisu. In Germany, ketchup became an essential ingredient in currywurst, a fried sausage with curry sauce. The Filipinos combined ketchup with spaghetti, creating their own version of pasta.

Interestingly, in some countries, ketchup has evolved in unexpected directions. In the Philippines, tomatoes ran out during World War II, so local producers began making ketchup from bananas, dyeing it red. Banana ketchup remains popular in the country to this day.

Ketchup didn't appear in the Soviet Union until the 1980s, but quickly gained popularity. However, the first Soviet versions were more like tomato paste and vinegar than true ketchup. Western brands flooded the market, and Russians quickly embraced the sweet American version.

Today, store shelves are filled with dozens of ketchup varieties: spicy, garlic, honey, organic, sugar-free, truffle. Experimental chefs are returning to their historical roots, creating mushroom and nut ketchups for fine dining restaurants. Some brands have even released versions with fermented anchovies, bringing the sauce full circle and returning to its Asian origins.

The debate over ketchup continues. Purists are outraged when someone pours it on a steak or hot dog in Chicago—locals consider it a culinary crime. The French disdainfully call ketchup an American condiment, a barbaric condiment, even though statistics show that the French buy it just as much as Americans.

Nutritionists criticize ketchup for its high sugar content—a tablespoon can contain up to a teaspoon of sugar. Manufacturers respond by releasing reduced-sugar versions with natural sweeteners, but the classic, slightly sweet flavor remains the most popular.

The history of ketchup is a microcosm of globalization. An Asian fermented sauce evolved into a British mushroom experiment, then became an American tomato icon, and eventually spread around the world, adapting to local tastes. Over three centuries, ketchup has evolved from an exotic sailor's condiment to a must-have sauce in every refrigerator.

It's surprising that the product has changed so much that modern ketchup bears almost no resemblance to its Asian ancestor. If a 17th-century Chinese merchant had tried Heinz, he wouldn't have recognized the sweet tomato sauce as the descendant of his salty fish kê-tsiap.

Today, approximately 400 million liters of ketchup are produced annually worldwide. Americans consume approximately three bottles per person per year, while Heinz sells 650 million bottles annually. Ketchup has become so commonplace that we've forgotten how extraordinary its history is.

Did you know about ketchup's fish roots, or was it a revelation? Which unusual ketchup would you like to try—the traditional mushroom or the exotic banana?