What happens at ski resorts in Iran

According to popular beliefs, the Middle East is entirely a hot desert, there can be no snow peaks here. But in reality they are, and skiing is a popular pastime in Lebanon, Turkey, Israel and Iran.

Milan-based photographer Gaia Squarchi, who has been skiing in the Alps since childhood, went to ski resorts north of the Iranian capital with writer Lawrence Cornet, who introduced her to this area. On the slopes, in hotels, restaurants and surrounding places, the photographer discovered a whole world that lifts the veil over Iranian society. "Skiing has become a way for us to get a little closer to understanding some of his processes," she writes. The result was a photo project called Ski in Iran ("Skiing in Iran"), which introduces the viewer to this slice of Iranian life.

(8 photos in total)

Source: Feature Shoot

Skiers and a dog scattered on the slope at the Tochal ski resort in the Alborz Mountains on December 14, 2014.

"When I was little, I went skiing in the Alps, where the valleys are less deep than in Iran, and densely dotted with resorts. Skiing in Iran is not new, it appeared under the Shah. After the overthrow of the Shah, as a result of the revolution, many radical changes took place, and although skiing was not completely destroyed, its development slowed down, and it is still perceived as a Western trend. When you are high up in one of these places, it is rare to find any structures or buildings other than those in which you are at the moment, and the gaze freely wanders along the slopes, not clinging to anything. Structures are often imported from Europe, where they were decommissioned, so they look pretty old-fashioned. It seemed to me that I went back twenty years. The grip of the regime in these places is felt a little less than in the city, but there are different types of uniformed and civilian police who prowl around. The rules are not much different from those adopted in the West, but there are additional restrictions for women."

Clients and an employee of the resort in the restaurant of one of the chalets in Tochala, Alborz Mountains, December 29, 2014.

"Women's ski jackets should be longer, they cover the legs to about mid-thigh, and the heads should be covered, although hats are much more common than headscarves, and there is a little more freedom with respect to individual strands of hair escaping out."

Stray dogs fight on the slopes of Darbandsar in front of Damavand Peak, the highest volcano in Asia, which is a matter of national pride and plays an important role in Zoroastrian mythology. Alborz Mountains north of Tehran, January 3, 2015.

"Lawrence quickly noticed that on the ski pass itself there is a reminder that customers must adhere to the principles of Sharia. One of the main differences from my usual experience associated with ski resorts was that evenings in public places ended early and everything was very quiet. Alcohol is not served in bars and restaurants, and it is forbidden to dance in public in Iran, so, as in many other spheres in this country, life is in full swing behind closed doors."

The remains of an afternoon tea at the intermediate stop of the 45-minute open-type lift in Tochala, Alborz Mountains, December 29, 2014.

"We met with Iranian expats who work or study abroad and are returning for holidays, local youth, conservative families who came to the mountains to walk or take a break from the chaos in Tehran, and several tourists from Europe. For example, one girl we talked to studied economics in Los Angeles, two brothers from Northern Europe were there because of their love of winter sports, and several other foreigners combined winter leisure with visiting Iranian friends. Lawrence also talked to a group of Swiss skiers and snowboarders who founded an organization called "We Ride in Iran" to teach local freestyle."

A skier in the lobby of a hotel in Tochal, Alborz Mountains north of Tehran, December 29, 2014.

"A whole set of different lifestyles coexist on the slopes, and when you spend time there, it definitely destroys any idea of the solidity of Iranian society. Nevertheless, we did not forget that the ski community in Iran, as in any other place in the world, automatically excludes part of the local population due to the costs associated with the sport itself. Rental prices and ski passes are lower than in Europe, but they are still quite expensive for Iranians."

A child is playing on a billiard table in the basement of a hotel in Dizin. Alborz Mountains, December 31, 2014.

"There are several resorts in other regions of the country. We have focused our attention on those located near Tehran. It was amazing for me to discover the contrast between these beautiful natural landscapes and the turmoil, pollution and insanely organized traffic in the city nearby."

A man shows his mother the slopes on which he will ride, in Tochala, Alborz Mountains, January 6, 2015.

"All resorts are no more than two hours away from Tehran, and the nearest one is Tochal. You can get there by an open funicular, which takes 45 minutes and departs from the recreation area in the northern part of the city. Tochal is a small resort compared to others, but it is so high that visitors sometimes feel bad from the height. Among the places we visited are Dizin, which is a meeting place for a younger company of snowboarders and freestylers, and Darbandsar, from where you can look at Mount Damavand, the highest volcano in Asia."

Skiers climb back to the top of the slope in Tochala on an open lift. Alborz Mountains, December 29, 2014.

"We would love to go to Shemshak, another popular place near Darbandsar, where you can see emus from a nearby ostrich farm on the slopes, but we couldn't get there at the right time because the road was covered with snow."