The story of Loulou de la Falaise, Yves Saint Laurent's muse and chief assistant

Loulou de la Falaise is a woman whose life was intimately intertwined with the world of haute couture. Her name is forever etched in history thanks to her partnership with Yves Saint Laurent. She didn't simply inspire the legendary couturier; she became his collaborator, confidant, and co-creator in creating the inimitable style of the house of Yves Saint Laurent. Her vibrant personality, natural sense of taste, and bold self-expression made de la Falaise a true icon. Her role in fashion history was far more significant than simply being the designer's muse.

Many call Loulou de la Falaise Yves Saint Laurent's muse. But that's not entirely true. Muses are typically considered beautiful, laid-back women who simply inspire creative people. Loulou, however, was a true workaholic and, together with the great fashion maestro, created the inimitable style of his legendary brand.

This woman's full name is Louise Vava Lucia Henriette Le Bailey de la Falaise. She was born on May 4, 1947, in England, to an aristocratic family. Her father, Count Alain de la Falaise, was a renowned French writer and publisher, and her mother, Maxime Burley, was an Anglo-Irish model. Loulou later said that thanks to her mother, she was exposed to the world of fashion from an early age.

Even the very young Lulu was bathed in water to which her mother added Elsa Schiaparelli's elite perfume, Shocking. Berli could afford this, as she personally knew the brand's founder and promoted her creations. The girl's childhood was not deprived, but it still couldn't be called happy.

When Lulu was very young, her parents divorced acrimoniously. The reason was Maxime's infidelity, which her husband discovered. Lulu and her brother Alexis were removed from the family by court order and placed with foster parents. With great difficulty, her mother regained custody of the children, but they rarely lived at home. Lulu spent most of her childhood in various boarding schools.

These were elite institutions for children from wealthy families. But Lulu didn't fit in and was even expelled. The first time, she was expelled from a private school in Sussex for fighting and putting slugs in children's shoes. She was then expelled from a boarding school in Switzerland, but the reason for this was unknown.

When Lulu grew up, she decided to follow in her mother's footsteps. She didn't have to fight her way to success like other aspiring models. Maxime Berli was a star of the fashion industry. Her daughter, after moving to New York, immediately began working with Diana Vreeland, the editor of Harper's Bazaar and Vogue.

Moreover, the slender, long-legged girl was noticed by iconic photographers Richard Avedon and Irving Penn. A new, exciting life began for Lulu. Photoshoots, fashion shows, presentations, parties—she immersed herself in the whirlwind of the bohemian life of a sought-after New York model.

Without even trying, de la Falaise achieved what thousands of her peers dreamed of. But Loulou found posing for photographers boring. In the late 1960s, the 20-year-old model returned to her native London. She got a job at Queen magazine as a junior editor. She soon married Irish aristocrat Desmond Fitzgerald, but the marriage lasted only a year.

At the same time, another fateful union entered Lulu's life. In 1968, she met Yves Saint Laurent. Unfortunately, the exact location of their first meeting is unknown. Some versions say it happened on Carnaby Street; others say it happened at a social tea party.

Whatever the case, a friendship developed instantly. Lulu recalled:

But more than their shared sense of humor, the 21-year-old de la Falaise and 32-year-old Saint Laurent shared a passion for fashion. She worked at a magazine and skillfully exploited her mother's connections in the fashion world. She was close to Elsa Schiaparelli's granddaughters and designed fabrics for Halston.

Lulu wasn't afraid to experiment with her style. For example, she'd pay a thousand dollars for bright orange leather shorts with fringe and then dance in them until dawn at a club. And Yves Saint Laurent always had a thing for extravagant people who weren't shy about experimenting.

The designer would appear in public with Loulou de la Falaise or another friend, Betty Catroux. Sometimes he would be accompanied by both women. They always wore his brand's pieces and were excellent advertisements. In the early 1970s, Saint Laurent invited Loulou to move from London to Paris and work with him. She agreed. In an interview, the designer said:

De la Falaise quickly found her niche—she focused on creating accessories for YSL. But she also had an undeniable influence on the fashion house's clothing. Many noticed that with Loulou's arrival, Saint Laurent began to gradually shift from strict, classic silhouettes and dark colors to brighter, more playful pieces.

Although de la Falaise never trained as a designer, she was a true visionary. She could easily express her ideas to Saint Laurent's jewelers using just her fingers. With Loulou's arrival at YSL, brooches shaped like bright butterflies and starfish, leaf necklaces, and jewelry with colored stones began appearing in the collections.

All this breathed fresh air into the brand. De la Falaise loved combining seemingly incompatible elements: she combined jewelry with costume jewelry, layering accessories to create a striking eclecticism. These details gave the fashion house's style a new dimension and elevated it to a new level. "I like it when the clothes look calm and the accessories are wild," said Yves Saint Laurent.

While working with YSL, Loulou married her second time. In 1977, she married the French writer Thadée Kolossowski de Rola, son of the artist Balthus. Saint Laurent personally designed the bride's gown. It was oriental in style, and instead of a veil, she wore an intricate turban. The ceremony took place in the Bois de Boulogne, and guests were transported along the river on flower-strewn boats.

For a long time, Loulou de la Falaise shared Yves Saint Laurent's passion for parties, alcohol, and drugs. But in the early 1980s, the designer's collaborator began to embrace a healthier lifestyle. Saint Laurent, overcome by vices, often lost interest in his work. Then Loulou came to his aid, and they began creating together.

When the designer retired in the early 2000s, Loulou left his company to pursue her own venture. She founded her own brand and opened two boutiques in Paris selling clothing and accessories. At the same time, Loulou designed accessories for Oscar de la Renta, who was also a close friend. Loulou ran her business for only five years, after which she cooled off and closed her boutiques.

She and her husband bought a house in the countryside, and Loulou took up gardening. Yves Saint Laurent's collaborator and muse died on November 5, 2011, at the age of 64. She outlived the designer by only three years. The official cause of de la Falaise's death is being kept under wraps, but it is reported that she suffered from lung cancer in the last year of her life.

Her daughter, Anna Kolossovsky, followed in her mother's footsteps. She also creates fashion accessories and is passionate about painting. She graduated from the Sorbonne University with a design degree and interned with John Galliano and Rochas. Anna also curates exhibitions dedicated to the Yves Saint Laurent brand.

Loulou de la Falaise's story shows that behind every great designer is a team of people whose ideas and energy help create masterpieces. Her taste and boldness made Yves Saint Laurent's fashion even more vibrant. Who do you think has the greater influence on success in the fashion world—the designer himself or his muse and closest collaborators?