The chosen solyanka: why foreign chefs are moving to Russia

In tsarist times, Russia readily welcomed foreigners. European industrialists, tutors, businessmen, politicians built careers in Moscow and St. Petersburg that they could only dream of at home. A hundred years ago, the iron curtain blocked the beaten path. Now it is not there, but foreign human capital is not in a hurry to come to us. There are a lot of foreigners only in some areas. Mainly in the restaurant industry. We asked the gastronomic gurus why they came to Russia and stayed for a long time.

(7 photos in total)

Michelle Christmann

brand chef

Where does he work? At the Pinot Noir restaurant in Rostov-on-Don.

Why is he surprised? Russians like to eat fully fried meat, eat cheeses not for dessert or separately, order everything on the table in a restaurant.

Michel Christmann is a fairly young chef from France, who has a brilliant education and work in several Michelin—starred restaurants. According to him, he was inspired to get a culinary profession by his father, who cooked a lot and deliciously. Christmann is a participant and winner of many professional competitions — for example, the annual French competition between chefs Les chefs en Or.

Most of all, he appreciates local products, especially those that he has never worked with before. "I really like experimenting, mixing them to end up with unique tastes, textures and aesthetically beautiful dishes," says Christmann.

For several years now, Rostov residents have been able to enjoy the fruits of his work in the Pinot Noir haute cuisine restaurant. As for the peculiarities of taste preferences of Russians, the cook notes their craving for vegetables and soups. Judging by the menu, Christmann took into account the preferences of the guests. But the main goal of the Frenchman is to introduce people to the exquisite dishes of French gastronomy. However, it still does not work without a drop of Russian flavor: caramel from kvass is proof of that.

Kobayashi Katsuhiko

cafe owner, chef

Where does he work? In our own Corner Cafe & Kitchen in Moscow.

Why is he surprised? The slowness and relaxation of Russians in their work, the willingness to always help, mutual trust and openness.

Kobayashi Katsuhiko lived in Japan until he was 22. When he realized that cooking was not just a hobby, he went to study his craft in France. There he had a chance to work in several Michelin-starred establishments, including as a chef. The offer from Russia turned the life of a Japanese man upside down: he gave eight years to the Moscow restaurant Nedalny Vostok. Kobayashi also headed the pastry shop at Madame Wong Restaurant for some time. And in 2016, he opened his own Corner Cafe & Kitchen.

According to the master, despite his professional success in France, he felt "his own" in Russia. "I can trust one hundred percent here. There was no such feeling in France or Japan. Here I can be open and receive the same openness in return. I see that I am being heard," Katsuhiko shared his thoughts.

Kobayashi really likes that in our country they are not afraid to combine incongruous products. This is the harmony, balance and freedom of choice that allows you to create.

Anthony William Geer

manager, sommelier

Where does he work? Restaurant "Old Customs" in St. Petersburg.

Why is he surprised? Unique Far Eastern seafood, a large number of perfectionists among colleagues.

The Englishman devoted 50 years of his life to the restaurant business. In 1970, Mr. Geer became a member of the Royal Guild of Wine Experts. He has worked for about 20 years in the restaurants of the famous London hotels Savoy and Le Meredien Hotel. But for the longest time the restaurateur remains loyal to the St. Petersburg institution "Old Customs", which is well known to gourmets and connoisseurs of haute cuisine of the Northern capital.

Gir is an adherent of such a format as show kitchen. He and his subordinates often arrange gastronomic performances for their guests. The highlight of the program is the virtuoso cooking of "Steak Tartare": a special cart with the necessary ingredients rolls out right into the hall, and Mr. Gear starts the show.

The chef is also an expert in wild seafood cuisine. He independently selects places for fishing giant Far Eastern oysters, based on his experience, a book "Giant Oysters" was even published.

Mr. Geer is confident that the import substitution policy currently adopted in Russia creates a spacious field of growth for local artisans producing cheeses and sausages. "They studied with foreign specialists and are now reproducing Spain and Italy in their workshops climatically and temperature-wise," says Anthony. But he is completely delighted with the Far Eastern oysters and crabs that grow to colossal sizes in the wild — the Englishman goes after them personally every time. In general, he is confident: "Russia has everything to create haute cuisine."