Outlandish tribe
The photographer and traveler Roman Sukhodeev tells: Sea Gypsies. All their lives they roam the waves between the Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia, spend their lives either in boats, fishing and pearl fishing, or in houses on stilts near the shore. After flying from Moscow to the capital of Malaysia, and then getting to the city of Tawau, on the island of Borneo, I went in search of the amazing people of Bajao. And I wasn't sure I'd find him. But I was lucky: I met a man who brought me to the sea gypsies.
To visit a strange tribe that lives not on land, but in the sea, was my long-standing dream. I lived here for a couple of days.
I felt Gypsy friendliness from the very threshold. Even before I unloaded the gifts from the old boat — a bag of rice, a bottle of butter and a bag of flour.
A sturdy vessel five meters long and one and a half wide — what else do you need to cheerfully meet the gypsy old age?!
A trough for a sea gypsy is like a bicycle for a "land" boy. The turquoise waves of the Sulawesi Sea have filled the body with strength since childhood, and the spirit with health.
The Bajao live as a community. And they are faithful to the laws of their ancestors. In search of good prey, they can wander in the sea for many days, sailing ashore only to, for example, celebrate the holy month of Ramadan, bury the body of the deceased or have a wedding.
The younger generation, as well as the older members of the tribe, could not answer the question "How old are you?". They are all happy children of the sea and the sun, they do not watch the clock. Although I have met some who have documents.
Under the roof of your house, as you know, it's always good. Even if the roof is artfully intertwined palm leaves.
As a rule, young bajao do not go to school. They don't have to sit in their pants at the desk. And it's not always necessary to just put it on.
Today, the father of the family came home from work early. And with good prey. The shoal of fish turned out to be less agile than a seasoned sea wolf.
Those born at sea do not speak English. But I think I managed to understand that recently it has become increasingly difficult for Gypsies to get fish with nets and hooks, they have to resort to dynamite. Well, who hasn't smelled gunpowder here?
People descend into the water here in order to swim, swim, and collect algae. Yes, for any need.
The time I spent at bajao's reminded me of "Boniface's Vacation." Every morning I, like a cartoon lion, arranged performances for the simple-minded kids. And even taught me how to handle the camera properly.
The ability to hold your breath for a long time is transmitted to sea gypsies, as they say, with mother's milk. But boys are boys everywhere. The dispute "who is longer" is solved - for three coconuts.
From time to time you have to go on the road for fresh water.
Do not think that the life of Gypsies is as easy as the wind. The young generation has something to think about. After a couple of empty "fish carts", it's so tempting to give up everything, move to land and engage in buying and selling.
But while I was staying here, I didn't meet a single bored child. But there is no Internet.
A novice diver is happy to pose in front of the camera. I have no doubt that soon he, like his father and grandfather, will learn to dive to a depth of 30 meters. To master this skill, he will have to... injure the eardrums. No sharp objects are needed, it will be necessary not to equalize the pressure, rushing to the depth. It is clear that bleeding, dizziness and hearing loss are provided, but in a month it will be possible to descend painlessly to the seabed.
On the second day of my stay in the sea kingdom-state, I noticed that any house looks like Baba Yaga's living space. Only instead of chicken legs, wooden legs were attached to the huts. By the way, these piles have to be changed often.
A caravan in the turquoise desert.
Should I go get clams for dinner?
Unlike land gypsies, who predict life storms by hand, sea gypsies predict a storm by the rustle of the wind.
No social networks! Only fishing!
For dresses — skirts, shorts, T—shirts, caps, slates, costume jewelry - members of the community go, as our villagers once did, to the fair.
To stock up on clothes and food, Gypsies need to leave their sea abode from time to time.
Well, why not a horizontal bar?!
While the men are driving boats and fishing, the women are cooking and doing laundry. Even girls do all the housework with ease. Washing for this young hostess is a pleasure. And of course, they don't even dream of washing machines here. The maximum is about a new trough.
In isolation from reality.
The first steps. To the native culture or to civilization? I wonder what this person will choose when he grows up?