A year later, the tragedy in Osh

Writes filevskayalinia: will Soon be a year since the tragedy in Kyrgyz Osh. Then killed more than 400 people, about a thousand were injured, about half a million became refugees. Now, according to media reports, the city introduced a special regime in connection with the approaching anniversary, it has become more police, and on TV shows films about the friendship of peoples. I was in Osh at the end of April and would like to show what it is today, this city, once famous for one of the most cheap and huge markets in middle Asia.

(44 photos)

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2. Arriving at the airport in Osh, we were forced to jostle in a chaotic queue, so we checked out passports and made to Luggage. All climb ahead, men oppress women, so had intensely to his elbows to get ahead. We told the border guard that we were going then to Uzbekistan. "There's scary," he said, gave passports. Luggage dumped directly from a truck, and no one, of course, the output is not checked tag. Immediately outside the gate is attacked by the taxi drivers, but we got in the minibus and went to the center, although the taxi drivers claimed that the minibuses don't go. "Yes, the market now are not the same, the city was badly damaged and now it is not as beautiful as before", - told us good-natured marshrutchiki. "What the Uzbeks back to you?" - we asked. "Back slowly, where to go," he said.

3. Although I was not in the old Osh, but the destruction was impossible not to notice. Next to destroyed tents stood the inscription "peace-peace", the remainder apparently from the Soviet era.

4. Morning. The city wakes up. 10 som sell tasty somsa with tea. This day was Easter and we brought back with him from Moscow cake. Sitting in a little diner and listening to Muslim chants, we ate cake and were treated to them sitting next to the Kirghiz. They refused and thanked. Later on the street passing people congratulated us with Easter.

5. One of the first in the market appeared the sellers of tortillas. The smell of freshly baked bread.

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9. At the Bazaar were very many inscriptions in tents "Kyrgyzstan", "empty". They occur in the city.

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11. Photos of the Bazaar.

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16. Many sellers miss sitting alone in a whole row.

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18. However, people without tents cost.

19. Although pretty dinged up and with a smaller range, the status of one of the cheapest markets in Central Asia, Osh Bazaar is not lost. Of course, then you need to bargain, as everywhere in Asia. We traded flip flops for men 60 som (about 40 rubles). As such is not collapsed.

20. Someone is selling lamps.

21. House near the Bazaar.

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23. Near the Bazaar is a city Park. Very nice place in the Soviet style. When you walk on it, it seems that Osh is a true haven of tranquility and peace, where no strife and does not smell. Kids here ride on the carousel, mom's watching TV and dad singing karaoke.

24. Grandpa in a funny Kyrgyz caps playing chess.

25. Or to the shooting range with her grandchildren.

26. Then sold cotton candy, ice cream, soda and other joys of life. However, even here there are notorious inscription of national belonging.

27. And the ruin is very near, it has not disappeared.

28. Situated near the Suleiman mountain (towers over the city at 150 meters), a kind of local red square. Entrance is only 5 kgs, but you can free up.

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30. Here is the Osh.

31. Here a pray and just relax. Upstairs, by the way, sold ice cream.

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34. The city

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38. Then we just went to Osh for the first route of the trolley, looked distant quarters of the city. Of course, the trolley sped through the streets like it's a race car: it's Asia!

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40. Drivers.

41. Notable stops in the city.

42. Refueled with food at a local cafe (a cafe, by the way, then closed, and one gets the feeling that to open in the near future do not intend), we boarded the bus to the Kyrgyz-Uzbek border. Here it was deserted. We were the only ones who wanted to go to Uzbekistan. However, as it turned out, the border is now closed for the local and only works for foreigners, that's why it was so deserted. Kyrgyz customs passed successfully and quickly. "What is it?" asked Kyrgyz customs, combing the backpack. "It's Souvenirs," we said, pointing to calendars and magnets. "Christmas?!" - whether asked whether he said. We supported the corruption and gave the calendar and a magnet, but quickly was able to pass. Kyrgyz stamps then we got no problems.

43. But the Uzbeks, although did not ask, but gave us a real shakedown: first forced to fill in a detailed Declaration, listing what we got from currency, technology, etc(fill in the blank I had in Uzbek, in Russian documents), then counted with us all currency to the penny, went through the books, the printouts, the files in the PDA pictures. "Oh, that's Yasenevo, I was there", - said the guard and then frowned when I saw a picture where there were some cell towers. "Why did you take this photo?" he asked me menacingly. "Just like," I said. He made me erase the photo. For such a vigilant inspection of the battery I got really hooked, so then I remembered a bad word the Uzbek customs (I just forgot my charger at home and to find a new battery and charging could not). Then I was taken into a separate room and I had inspected benevolent, but very meticulous girl pogranichnitsa, she launched even wet wipes (all of a sudden I put back) and other things of personal hygiene, smelled of drugs and looked at the pills. Finally I was left alone, asking finally: "Well, as there Kirghizia?" "More or less quiet," I replied, barely stuffing stuff back, and went to Uzbekistan.

44. Money local we didn't have currency exchange, nearby seemed to be nowhere, so we hitchhiked to Andizhan. On the way talked with the driver-the Uzbek about the events of a year ago. "The Kyrgyz have always been pastoralists, did not want to work in the fields as the Uzbeks, for example, why only the conflict began: the specialization of all its peoples could live a normal life. But now, like everything is getting better, many Uzbeks have returned to Osh, but they still have to do: work not everywhere you will find" - he said on the way to Andijan. But this is, as they say, is another story.